Satin weave with twill effect



. tional harnesses.

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SATIN WEAVE WITH TWILL EFFECT Ernest R. Bowser, Red Hill, Pa.Application July 18, 1958, Serial No. 749,444

Claims. Cl. 139-55 Thepresent invention relates to a novel method ofobtaining desirable weave characteristics in a woven fabric, and hasparticular application to ribbons and other narrow fabrics.

Ribbons and other narrow fabrics are normally woven with a uniform weaveacross their width, usually a satin weave, and are bordered with asuitable selvage weave.

The body of the ribbon is conventionally woven on five harnesses and theselvage weave is woven on six addi- Due to the limitations of the narrowfabric loom, additional harnesess are not available to producevariations in the weave in the body of the fabric.

With the foregoing in mind, a primary object of the present invention isto provide a variation in the weave in the body of the fabric whileemploying the same number of harnesses.

More specifically, the invention contemplates a narrow fabric in whichthe body of the fabric is woven on five harnesses controlled to producea S-end satin weave. A selected portion of the warp is threaded in theharnesses to produce a S-end satin with a base of three, whereas anotherportion of the warp is threaded in the harnesses to produce a right-hand4/1 twill.

All of the objects of the invention and the various details of theconstruction of the fabric and the performance of the method of theinvention are more fully set forth hereinafter with reference to theaccompanying drawing wherein:

Fig. 1 is an enlarged and opened-out plan view of a fabric made inaccordance with the present invention, opened-out about five times asmuch weftwise as warp wise;

Fig. 2 is a draw diagram for the fabric shown in Fig. 1; and

Figs. 3, 4 and 5 are schematic representations of various effectspossible within the scope of the invention.

Before proceeding with the description, it is noted that in theillustration in Fig. 1, there are substantial openings between the warpsand wefts of the fabric shown. In practice, the warps are wovencontiguous in continuing parallel side-by-side relation, and the weftsare likewise contiguous in continuing parallel side-by-side relation.Furthermore, the illustration is fragmentary in that the variouswarpwise strips extend weftwise for more than the number of repeatsshown, and in the actual fabric, the side edges of the fabric have aselvage.

Referring now to Fig. 1, the portion of the fabric illustrated thereincomprises a warpwise strip 19 of a twill weave construction, a centralwarpwise strip 29 of Satin weave construction, and at the other side, asecond warpwise strip 19a of twill weave construction.

It is noted that throughout the illustrated portion of the fabric, eachwarp floats over four wefts and is tied under the fifth weft. In thestrip 19 of the fabric, the first warp 11 is tied under a first weft andfloats over the next four wefts 10 at each side of the tying-in weft.The warp 12 is tied under the second weft 10 and floats Patented Feb.23, 19 60 "ice over the four wefts 10 on either side of the tying-inweft. The warp 13 is tied under the third weft 10 and floats over thefour adjacent wefts on either side of the tying-in weft. The fourth warp14 is tied-in under the 6 fourth weft shot 10 and floats over the fouradjacent weft shots on either side of the tying-in weft shot. The fifthwarp 15 is tied under the fifth weft 10 and floats over the four weftshots on either side of the tying-in weft shots. Thus, the tying-inpoints for the warps 11 to 15 inclusive are disposed in a straight line,being olfset by one weft shot in adjacent warps.

The weave in the strip 19 is a 4/1 right-hand twill which producesdefinite angled lines in the Section 19 as shown in Fig. 3. In the satinstrip 29, the first warp 21 acts identically to the warp 11. The secondwarp 24 acts identically to the warp 14; the third warp 22 operatesidentically to the warp 12; the fourth warp 25 operates identically tothe warp 15, and the fifth warp 23 operates identically to the warp 13.This produces a S-end satin weave with a base of three and in thefabric, exhibits a generally smooth appearance free of the angled twilllines which are present in the sections 19 and 19a. The twill strip 19ais formed by warps 31-35 which are arranged and act identically to thewarps 11-15.

In accordance with the invention, the warps in the twill strips 19 and19a are strung in five harnesses designated respectively 41, 42, 43, 44,and 45 in Fig. 2. The remaining harnesses are employed to weave theselvage of the cloth. Since the warps in the section 29 operateidentically to the warps in the sections 19 and 19a, they are strung inthe same harnases. As shown in Fig. 2, the warps 21 are strung in theharness 41, the warps 24 are strung in the harness 44, the warps 22 arestrung in the harness 42, the warps 25 are strung in the harness 45, andthe warps 23 are strung in the harness 43. By reason of thisconstruction, and the stringing of the warps as indicated,-the weaveproduced by the present invention exhibits warpwise strips having twillcharacteristics in addition to warpwise strips having satincharacteristics.

In the weaving process, each harness is raised over four successivepicks and is lowered under the fifth pick. Each harness is lowered undera different pick, and in the present instance, the lowering of theharnesses is performed in regular sequence. The operation of the loom inthis manner thereby produces a fabric, the body of which is composed ofstrips having different weave characteristics, but woven on the sameharnesses.

Many intersting weave effects may be obtained by the method of thepresent invention. For example, Fig. 3 shows a weave having satin strips29, 29a, and 29b respectively separated by twill strips 19 and 19a. Fig.4 shows a weave having a single satin strip 29c and a pair of twillstrips 19b and on opposite sides thereof. Fig. 5 shows a reversearrangement having a single twill strip 19d bordered by satin strips 29dand 292.

In the illustrated embodiments, the satin weave is a five-end satin witha base of three. It is possible to use more or less hardnesses toincrease or decrease the number of ends in the satin weave, and byproper selection for the threading-in of the warps in the satin strip,the base of the satin weave may be changed. In similar manner, thetwills have been illustrated as 4/1 twill. Other twills in which thewarp is tied-under a single weft after a warpwise float may beproducedin conjunction with other satin weaves as noted above.

In the illustrated draw diagram, the twill ends are drawn in a straightdraw and the harnesses are controlled to weave a twill. This procedureis preferred when the twill ends outnumber the satin ends. In thefabrics where the satin ends outnumber the twill ends, it is preferredto draw the satin ends in a straight draw 3 s and control the harnessesto weave a satin. With reference to Fig. 2, it is noted that if theharnesses are controlled to weave satin on astraight draw, the ends11-15 Will weave satin and the ends 21-25 will weave a 4/1 left-handtwill.

As an exampleof a specific fabric composition, a rayon fabric mightembody warps of seventy-five denier, wefts of one hundred fifty denier,and the construction would embody approximately two hundred forty endsper inch and sixty picks per inch. A fabric employing nylon yarn wouldembody a seventy denier warp and two hundred denier filling and theconstruction would be identical to the rayon construction as to picksand ends per inch.

By using a heavier denier in the filling, the twill eifect may be mademore pronounced.

. While particular embodiments of the present invention have been hereinillustrated and described and specific examples given, it is notintended to limit the invention to such disclosure, but changes andmodifications may be made therein and thereto within the scope of thefollowing claims:

. I claim:

1. The method of producing a fabric having at least two warpwise stripstherein, one of said strips embodying a twill weave and the other ofsaid strips embodying a satin weave, comprising the steps of controllinga given number of harnesses of a loom to weave over a plurality of picksand under a single pick in each warpwise repeat embodying said givennumber of picks, each harness weaving under a different pick in saidrepeat, threading the warps of said twill strip into said' harnesses ina sequence so as to form a twill weave exhibiting diagonal stripes, andthreading the warps of said satin strip into said harnesses in adifferent sequence so as to produce a satin weave having no apparentstripes therein.

2. The method according to claim 1 wherein said given number is five,said harnesses weaving over four picks, and wherein further said warpsof the twill strip are threaded to produce a 4/1 twill, and said warpsof the satin strip are threaded to produce a five-end satin weave.

3. The method according to claim 1 wherein said fabric has at leastthree strips including the step of threading the warps of said strips toprovide a central strip of one weave and strips of the other weave onopposite sides of said central strip.

4. The method according to claim 1 wherein said fabric has at least fivestrips including the step-of threading the warps of sa'idstrips toprovide a central strip and two side strips of one weave, and a strip ofthe other weave between said central strip and each side strip.

5. The method according to claim. 1 including the step of interweavingwith said warps picks having twice the size of the warps to produce afabric having substantially more ends per inch than picks per inch.

References Cited in the file of this patent Handbook of Weaves byOelsner, The Macmillan Company, 1915, pages 324' and 328 required.

